Three fine sights are day-trip temptations from Barcelona. Fans of Surrealism can combine a fantasy in Dalí-land with a classy but sleepy port-town getaway by spending a day or two in Cadaqués, with a stop at the Dalí Theater-Museum in Figueres (an hour from Cadaqués and 2 hours from Barcelona). For the consummate day at the beach, head 45 minutes south to the charming and free-spirited resort town Sitges.

Figueres

The town of Figueres (feeg-YEHR-ehs) — conveniently connected by train to Barcelona — is of sightseeing interest only for its Salvador Dalí Theater-Museum. In fact, the entire town seems Dalí-dominated.

Just follow the crowds and Museu Dalí signs to the museum which fills the town’s theater. It was destroyed in the Civil War. Salvador Dalí (1904-1989) showed his art for the first time in this building and he was baptised in the church just across the street. The place was sentimental to him. He and the mayor worked a deal, the theater was reconstructed as Dalí’s museum, Figueres was on the sightseeing map, and the money’s been flowing in ever since.

The Dalí Museum is the essential Dalí sight and, if you like Dalí, one of Europe’s most enjoyable museums. Inaugurated in 1974, the museum is a work of art in itself. Dalí personally conceptualized, designed, decorated, and painted it. Ever the entertainer and promoter — this would showcase his life’s work. The museum is also a kind of mausoleum to Dalí’s creative spirit. There’s no logical order to the museum — that would be un-surrealistic. And, naturally, there’s no audio guide. Dalí said there are two kinds of visitors: those who don’t need a description and those who aren’t worth a description.

Step into the theater, face the stage — and Dalí’s unmarked crypt. You know how you can never get a cab when it’s raining? Pop a coin into Dalí’s personal 1941 Cadillac, and it rains inside the car. Look above, atop the tire tower: That’s the boat enjoyed by Dalí and his soulmate, Gala — his emotional life-preserver, who kept him from going overboard. When she died…so did he (for his last seven years). Below the boat drip blue tears made of condoms.

Up on the stage, squint at the big digital Abraham Lincoln and president #16 becomes in focus. Approach the painting to find that Abe’s facial cheeks are Gala’s butt cheeks. Under Abe a door leads to the Treasures Room, with the greatest collection of actual Dalí original oil paintings in the museum. (Much of what hangs on the walls is just prints.) You’ll see cubist visions of Cadaqués and dreamy portraits of Gala. Crutches — a reoccuring Dalí theme — represent Gala, who kept him supported when meltdown was threatening.

The famous Homage to Mae West room is a tribute to the sultry seductress. Dalí loved her attitude. Saying things like “Why marry and make one man unhappy when you can stay single and make so many so happy?” she was to conventional morality what Dalí was to conventional art. Climb to the vantage point where the lips sofa, nostel fireplaces and rest of the room all come together to make the face of Mae West.

Was he on drugs? When asked, he said “I am the drug…take me.” He was passionate about the dark side of things and, with Gala, he managed never to go off the deep end. Unlike Pablo Casals (the Catalan Cellist) and Pablo Picasso (another local artist), Dalí didn’t go into exile under Franco’s dictatorship. Pragmatically, he accepted both Franco and the Church and was supported by the dictator. Apart from the occassional Sardana dance, you won’t find a hint of politics in Dalí’s art.

Wander around. You can spend hours here wondering, is it real or not real? Am I crazy or is it you? Beethoven is painted with the ink of squid applied by a shoe on a stormy night. Jesus is made with candle smoke and an eraser. It’s fun to see the Dalí-ization of art classics. Dalí, like so many modern artiests was inspired by the masters — especially Valezquez.

The theater’s smoking lounge is a highlight with portraits of Gala and Dalí (with a big eye, big ear, and a dark side) book-ending a Roman candle of creativity. The fascinating ceiling painting shows the feet of Gala and Dalí as they zoom into heaven. Dalí’s drawers wide open and empty indicating he gave everything to his art.

The museum has two parts. Leaving the theater, keep your ticket and pop into the adjacent “Dalí’s Jewels” exhibit. It shows sketches and paintings of jewelry Dalí designed and the actual pieces jewelers made from those surreal visions: a mouth full of pearly whites, golden finger corset, fountain of diamonds, and the breathing heart. Explore the ambiguous perception worked into the big painting entitled Apotheosis of the Dollar.

Connections: Figueres is an easy day trip from Barcelona, or a handy stopover en route to France (trains between Barcelona and France stop in Figueres; lockers at station). Trains to Figueres from Barcelona depart from Sants Station or from the RENFE station at Metro: Passeig de Gràcia. For bus connections to Cadaqués, see sidebar at right.

Cadaques

Since the late 1800s, Cadaqués (kah-dah-KEHS) has served as a haven for intellectuals and artists alike. The fishing village’s craggy coastline, sun-drenched colors, and laid-back lifestyle inspired Fauvists such as Henri Matisse and Surrealists such as René Magritte, Marcel Duchamp, and Federico García Lorca. Even Picasso, drawn to this enchanting coastal haunt, painted some of his Cubist works here.

Salvador Dalí, raised in nearby Figueres, brought international fame to this sleepy Catalan port in the 1920s. As a kid, Dalí spent summers here in the family cabin, where he was inspired by the rocky landscape that would later be the backdrop for many Surrealist canvases. In 1929, he met his future wife Gala in Cadaqués. Together, they converted a fisherman’s home in nearby Port Lligat into their semi-permanent residence, dividing their time between New York, Paris, and Cadaqués. And it was here that Dalí did his best work.

Salvador Dali House

In spite of its fame, Cadaqués is laid-back and feels off the beaten path. If you want a peaceful beach-town escape near Barcelona, this is a good place. From the moment you descend into the town, taking in whitewashed buildings and deep blue waters, you’ll be struck by the port’s tranquility and beauty. Join the locals playing chess or cards at the cavernous Casino Coffee House (harborfront, with games and Internet access). Have a glass of vino tinto or cremat (a traditional rum-and-coffee drink served flambé-style) at one of the seaside cafés. Savor the lapping waves, brilliant sun, and gentle breeze. And, for sightseeing, the reason to visit is the Salvador Dalí House, a 20-minute walk from the town center at Port Lligat.

Tourist Information: The TI is at Carrer Cotxe 2 (Mon–Sat 9:00–14:00 & 16:00–21:00, Sun 10:30–13:00, less off-season, tel. 972-258-315).

Once Dalí’s home, the Salvador Dalí House (Casa Museu Salvador Dalí) gives fans a chance to explore his labyrinthine compound. This is the best artist’s house I’ve toured in Europe. It shows how a home can really reflect the creative spirit of an artistic genius and his muse. The ambience both inside and out is perfect for a Surrealist hanging out with his creative playmate. The bay is ringed by sleepy islands. Fishing boats are jumbled on the beach. After the fishermen painted their boats, Dalí asked them to clean their brushes on his door–creating an abstract work of art he adored (which you’ll see as you line up to get your ticket).

The interior is left almost precisely as it was in 1982, when Gala died and Dalí moved out. See Dalí’s studio (see the clever easel that cranked up and down to allow the artist to paint seated, as he did 8 hours a day); the bohemian-yet-divine living room (complete with a mirror to reflect the sunrise onto their bed each morning); the phallic-shaped swimming pool, which was the scene of orgiastic parties; and the painter’s study (with his favorite moustaches all lined up). Like Dalí’s art, his home is offbeat, provocative, and fun.

Touring the House: Reservations are mandatory — call ahead to book a time (tel. 972-251-015). Only 8-10 people are allowed in (no large groups) every 10 minutes. You must arrive 30 minutes early to pick up your ticket or they’ll sell it. Once inside, there are five sections, each with a guard who gives you a brief explanation in English and then turns you loose for a few minutes. The entire visit takes 50 minutes.

Getting There: The house is a 20-minute walk over the hill from Cadaqués to Port Lligat.

Connections by Car: Reaching Cadaqués is very tough without a car. There are no trains and only a few buses a day. By car, it’s a twisty 45-minute drive from Figueres. In Cadaqués, drivers should park in the big lot just above the city — don’t try to park near the harborfront. To reach the Dalí House, follow signs near Cadaqués to Port Lligat (easy parking).

Sitges
Beach in Sitges

Sitges (SEE-juhz) is one of Catalunya’s most popular resort towns. It’s long been famous for its free spirit and is a world-renowned vacation destination among the gay community. Despite its jet-set status, the old town has managed to retain its charm. Nine beaches extend about a mile southward from town. Stroll down the seaside promenade, which stretches from the town to the end of the beaches. About halfway, the crowds thin out, and the beaches become more intimate and cove-like. Along the way, restaurants and chiringuitos (beachfront bars) serve tapas, paella, and drinks. Take time to explore the old town’s streets and shops. On the waterfront, you’ll see the 17th-century Sant Bartomeu i Santa Tecla Church. It’s a quick hike up for a view of town, sea, and beaches.