Transportation Connections — San Sebastián

Remember that San Sebastián has two train stations: RENFE and EuskoTren. Which station you use depends on your destination.The RENFE station handles long-distance destinations within Spain (most of which require reservations). Connections include Irún (12/day, 25 min), Hendaye, France (9/day, 30 min), Madrid (3/day, 5–7 hrs), Burgos (4/day, 3–3.5 hrs), León (1/day, 5 hrs), Pamplona (3/day, 2 hrs), Salamanca (1/day, 6 hrs), Vitoria (5/day, 1.75 hrs), Barcelona (1/day, 8.5 hrs; also 1 night train/day except Sat, 10 hrs), and Santiago de Compostela (1/day, 11 hrs, final destination A Coruña). If you’re going into France, it’s best to take the regional Topo train (which leaves from the EuskoTren station) over the French border into Hendaye (2/hr, 30 min, departs EuskoTren station at :15 and :45 after the hour 6:15–21:45). From Hendaye, connect to France’s SNCF network, including Paris (from Hendaye: 4/day, 5.5 hrs, or 8.5-hr night train, reservations required). Unfortunately, San Sebastián’s EuskoTren station doesn’t have information on Paris-bound trains from Hendaye (except sometimes in summer). Don’t buy the Spanish ticket too far in advance— EuskoTren tickets to Hendaye must be used within two hours of purchase (or else they expire).

Also leaving from San Sebastián’s EuskoTren station are slow regional trains to destinations in Spain’s Basque region, including Bilbao (hourly, €10.50 round-trip ticket saves €2, 2.25–2.75 hrs — the bus is faster; EuskoTren info: tel. 902-543-210, www.euskotren.es). Although the train ride from San Sebastián to Bilbao takes twice as long as the bus, it passes through more interesting countryside.

By Bus: There is no real bus station in San Sebastián — it’s more a congregation of bus parking spots next to the big Hotel Amara Plaza, at the roundabout called Plaza Pío XII (on the river, four blocks south of EuskoTren station). The “station” is called Amara (for the neighborhood it’s in). Some schedules are posted at various stops, but confirm departure times and buy your tickets in advance at any of the bus companies with offices on either side of the block north of the station area (toward downtown, along Avenida de Sancho el Sabio and Paseo de Vízcaya). Pesa, which serves St. Jean-de-Luz and Bilbao, is located on the same side as the “station,” at Avenida de Sancho el Sabio 33 (tel. 902-101-210, www.pesa.net). The Alsa office— which serves Madrid, Burgos, and León, and also has baggage storage— is at Paseo de Vízcaya 16 (tel. 902-422-242, www.alsa.es).

From San Sebastián, buses go to Bilbao (get ticket from Pesa office, 2/hr, hourly on weekends, 6:30–22:00, 1.25 hrs, €9.20, departs from Amara; morning buses fill with tourists, commuters, and students, so consider buying your ticket the day before; once in Bilbao, buses leave you at Termibús stop with easy tram connections to the Guggenheim modern-art museum), Pamplona (La Roncalesa office, 8/day, 1 hr, €6.50), León (Alsa office, 1/day, 6 hrs, €28), Madrid (Alsa office, 8/day, 6 hrs direct, otherwise 7 hrs, €30–42; same bus stops at Burgos), and Barcelona (Vibasa office, 2/day and 1 at night, 7.5 hrs, €27).
Bilbao and the Guggenheim Museum

In recent years, the cultural and economic capital of the País Vasco, Bilbao (pop. 500,000), has seen a transformation like no other Spanish city. Entire sectors of the industrial city’s long-depressed port have been cleared away to allow construction of a new opera house, convention center, and the stunning Guggenheim Museum.

Bilbao feels at once like a city of the grim industrial past…and of an exciting new future. It mingles beautiful but crumbling old buildings; eyesore high-rise apartment blocks; brand-new, super-modern additions to the skyline (such as the Guggenheim); and, draping the lush green hillsides on the horizon all around, typical whitewashed Basque homes with red roofs. Bilbao enjoys a vitality and well-worn charm befitting its status as a regional capital of culture and industry.

Tourist Information: Bilbao’s handiest TI is across from the Guggenheim (July–Aug Mon–Sat 10:00–19:00, Sun 10:00–18:00; Sept–June Tue–Fri 11:00–18:00, Sat 11:00–19:00, Sun 11:00–15:00, closed Mon; Avenida Abandoibarra 2, tel. 944-710-301, www.bilbao.net). If you’re interested in anything besides the Guggenheim, pick up a map, the bimonthly Bilbao Guide newsletter, and the museum brochure (describing museums dedicated to everything from Basques and bullfighting to Holy Week processionals).