Sights — San Sebastián

La Concha Beach and Promenade — The shell-shaped Playa de La Concha, the pride of San Sebastián, has one of Europe’s loveliest stretches of sand. Lined with a two-mile-long promenade, it allows even backpackers to feel aristocratic. While pretty empty off-season, in summer, sunbathers pack its shores. But year-round, it’s surprisingly devoid of eateries and money-grubbing businesses. There are free showers, and cabinas provide lockers, showers, and shade for a fee. The Miramar palace and park, which divides the crescent in the middle, was where Queen María Cristina held court when she summered here. Her royal changing rooms are used today as inviting cafés, restaurants, and a fancy spa. For a century, the lovingly painted wrought-iron balustrade that stretches the length of the promenade has been a symbol of the city; it shows up on everything from jewelry to headboards.

La Perla Spa — The spa attracts a less royal crowd today and appeals mostly to visitors interested in sampling “the curative properties of the sea.” You can enjoy its Talaso Fitness Circuit, featuring a hydrotherapy pool, relaxation pool, panoramic Jacuzzi, cold-water pools, seawater steam sauna, dry sauna, and a relaxation area. For those seriously into spas, they offer additional services, from Dead Sea mud wraps to massages to day-long “personalized programs” (€21 for 1.75-hour fitness circuit, €27 for 3-hour circuit, daily 8:00–22:00, caps sold and towels rented, bring or buy a swimsuit, on the beach at the center of the crescent, Paseo de la Concha, tel. 943-458-856, www.la-perla.net).

Old Town (Parte Vieja) — Huddled in the shadow of its once-protective Monte Urgull, the Old Town is where San Sebastián was born about 1,000 years ago. The grid plan of streets hides heavy Baroque and Gothic churches, surprise plazas, and fun little shops, including venerable pastry stores, rugged produce markets, Basque-independence souvenir shops, and seafood-to-go delis. “THC shops” offer the latest from the decriminalized marijuana scene in Spain — adults are allowed to grow two plants. Be sure to wander out to the port to see the fishing industry in action. The Old Town’s main square, Plaza de la Constitución (where bullfights used to be held — notice the seat numbering on the balconies) features inviting café tables spilling from all corners. The highlight of the Old Town is its array of incredibly lively tapas bars — though here, these snacks are called pintxos (see sidebar, above right).

Museum of San Telmo — This humble museum displays exhibits and paintings in rooms arranged around the peaceful cloister of a former Dominican monastery. There are a few exhibits on Basque folk life, and a small collection of 19th- and 20th-century paintings by Basque artists that offers an interesting peek into the spirit, faces, and natural beauty of this fiercely independent region (free, other featured artists include El Greco and Rubens, minimal English information, Plaza Zuloaga 1, tel. 943-481-580).

Cruise — Small boats cruise from the Old Town’s port to the island in the bay (Isla Santa Clara), where you can hike the trails and have lunch at the lone café, or pack a picnic before setting sail (€8 round-trip; departures hourly on the hour 12:00–13:00 & 16:00–20:00, boats don’t run Oct–May).

Aquarium — San Sebastián’s impressive aquarium exhibits include a history of the sea, fascinating models showing various drift-netting techniques, a petting tank filled with nervous fish, a huge whale skeleton, and a 45-foot-long tunnel that allows you to look up at floppy rays and menacing sharks (€10, €6 for kids under 13; July–Aug daily 10:00–21:00; Easter–June and Sept Mon–Fri 10:00–20:00, Sat–Sun 10:00–21:00; Oct–Easter Mon–Fri 10:00–19:00, Sat–Sun 10:00–20:00; at the end of Paseo del Muelle at Carlos Blasco de Imaz Plaza 1, tel. 943-440-099,, www.aquariumss.com).

Naval Museum — Located at the port, this museum’s two floors of exhibits describe the seafaring city’s history, revealing the intimate link between the Basque culture and the sea (€1.20, free on Thu, ask if they have any English info at entry, Tue–Sat 10:00–13:30 & 16:00–19:30, Sun 11:00–14:00, closed Mon, just before aquarium at Paseo del Muelle 24, tel. 943-430-051).

Monte Urgull — The once-mighty castle (Castillo de la Mota) atop the hill deterred most attackers, allowing the city to prosper in the Middle Ages. The museum located within the castle features San Sebastián history and is mildly interesting. The best views from the hill are not from the statue of Christ, but from the ramparts on the left side (as you face the hill), just above the port’s aquarium. Café El Polvorín, nestled in the park, is a friendly place with salads, sandwiches, and good sangria. A new walkway allows you to stroll the mountain’s entire perimeter near sea level. This route is continuous from Hotel Parma to the aquarium. Paths are technically open only from sunrise to sunset (daily May–Sept 8:00–21:00, Oct–April 8:00–19:00). Why are some of the directional signs defaced? Because you’re in the land of Euskadi, not Spain — and to remind you, some proud Basque has spray-painted over the Spanish.

Monte Igueldo — For commanding city views (if you ignore the tacky amusements on top), ride the funicular up Monte Igueldo, a mirror image of Monte Urgull. The views over San Sebastián, along the coast, and into the distant green mountains are sensational day or night. The entrance to the funicular is on the road behind the tennis club on the far western end of Playa de Ondarreta, which extends from Playa de la Concha to the west (funicular-€2.30 round-trip; July–mid-Sept daily 10:00–22:00; April–June and mid-Sept–Oct daily 11:00–20:00; Nov–March Mon–Tue and Thu–Fri 11:00–18:00, Sat–Sun 11:00–20:00, closed Wed). If you drive to the top, you’ll pay €1.70 to enter. The #16 bus takes you here from the Old Town in about 10 minutes, stopping at the funicular station.