Spain’s Basque Country - Part 2
Arrival in San Sebastián
By Train: If you’re coming on a regional Topo train from Hendaye (“Hendaia” in Euskara) on the French border, get off at the EuskoTren station (end of the line, called Amara). It’s a level 15-minute walk to the center; exit the station and walk across the long plaza, then walk eight blocks down Calle Easo to the beach. The Old Town will be ahead on your right, with Playa de la Concha to your left. To speed things up, catch bus #21, #26, or #28 along Calle Easo and take it to the Boulevard stop, near the TI at the bottom of the Old Town.
If you’re arriving by train from elsewhere in Spain (or from France with a transfer in Irún), you’ll get off at the main RENFE station. It’s just across from the Centro Romántico shopping district. To reach the Old Town and most recommended hotels, cross the fancy, dragon-decorated María Cristina Bridge, turn right onto the busy avenue called Paseo de los Fueros, and follow the Urumea River until the last bridge.
By Bus: A few buses— such as those from Hondarribia and the airport— can let you off at pretty Plaza de Gipuzkoa (first stop after crossing the river, in Centro shopping area). To reach the Boulevard (with TI) and Old Town, simply walk one block down Legazpi street. But most buses — including those from Bilbao — take you instead to San Sebastián’s makeshift “bus station” (dubbed Amara) at a big roundabout called Plaza Pío XII. It’s basically a parking lot with a few bus shelters and a TI kiosk. At the end of the lot nearest the big roundabout, you’ll see directional signs pointing you toward the town center (about a 30-minute walk). To save time and energy, walk one block in that direction to catch local bus #21, #26, or #28 to the Boulevard stop, near the TI at the start of the Old Town.
By Car: Take the Amara freeway exit, follow Centro Ciudad signs into the city center, and park in a pay lot (many are well-signed). If you’re picking up or returning a rental car, “The Big Autorental” — which includes Hertz (Zubieta 5, tel. 943-461-084) and Avis (Triunfo 2, tel. 943-461-527) — is near Hotel Niza, and Europcar is at the RENFE train station (tel. 943-322-304).
Getting around San Sebastián
By Bus: At Alameda del Boulevard, along the bottom edge of the Old Town, you’ll find a line of public buses ready to take you anywhere in town; give any driver your destination, and he’ll tell you the number of the bus to catch (€1.20, pay driver).
Some handy bus routes: #21, #26, and #28 connect the Amara bus and EuskoTren stations to the TI (get off at the Boulevard stop); #16 begins at the Boulevard/TI stop, goes along Playa de la Concha and through residential areas, and eventually arrives at the base of the Monte Igueldo funicular. The TI has an excellent bus-route map, if you want to see exactly where you’re going (or see www.ctss.es).
By Taxi: Taxis start at €3, then charge €0.50 per kilometer. You can’t hail a taxi on the street— you must call one (tel. 943-404-040 or 943-464-646) or find a taxi stand (most convenient along the Boulevard).
By Tourist Train or Bus: Two options are available, but they’re not necessary in this walkable city: The “txu-txu” tourist train (€4.50, daily July–mid-Sept 11:00–21:00, mid-Sept–June 11:00–13:00 & 14:00–19:00, 40-min round-trip, tel. 943-422-973); and the Donosti hop-on, hop-off bus tour (follows two different routes — one along the bay and the other around the city; €12/route, or €14 for both, about 1 hour each, ticket good for 24 hours, leaves from Victoria Eugenia theater on the Boulevard, tel. 696-429-847).