If you’re traveling between Spain and France, the coastal resort of San Sebastián and the Guggenheim Bilbao modern art museum merit a quick visit, if only to see what all the fuss is about.

This is Basque Country, or in Spanish, País Vasco. The Basque region stretches 100 miles from Bilbao north to Bayonne, France. And in some ways, the País Vasco has more in common with the neighboring Pays Basque in France than it does with Spain. The Spanish and French Basque regions share a Union Jack–style flag (green, red, and white), cuisine, and common language (Euskara), spoken by about a half million people.

Insulated from mainstream Europe for centuries, the plucky Basques have just wanted to be left alone for more than 7,000 years. For 40 years, Generalissimo Franco did his best to tame this area; the bombed city of Guernica (Gernika), halfway between San Sebastián and Bilbao, survives as a tragic example of his efforts to suppress Basque independence.

Today the Basque terrorist organization, ETA (which stands for the Euskara phrase Euskadi Ta Askatasuna, or “Basque Country and Freedom”), is supported by a tiny minority of the population. The ETA, which tends to focus on political targets (and has been blamed for 800 deaths since 1968), goes largely unnoticed by tourists.

Even though the region was technically bilingual (Euskara and Spanish), Franco so effectively blunted Basque expression that the language was primarily Spanish by default. But after several Franco-free decades, there’s a renewed awareness of the importance of the Basque language (which is absolutely unrelated to any other). Look for it first on street signs, menus, and signs in shops — the Euskara word will be above any Spanish translation.

Similarly, today’s Basque lands are undergoing a 21st-century renaissance, as the dazzling new architecture of the Guggenheim Bilbao modern-art museum and the glittering resort of San Sebastián are drawing enthusiastic crowds. For small-town fun, drop by the fishing village of Lekeitio (near Bilbao) and little Hondarribia near the border — either is a good last (or first) stop in Spain.
San Sebastián

Shimmering above the breathtaking bay of La Concha, elegant and prosperous San Sebastián (Donostia in Euskara) has a favored location with golden beaches, capped by twin peaks at either end, and a cute little island in the center. A delightful beachfront promenade runs the length of the bay, with an intriguing Old Town at one end and a smart shopping district in the center. It has 180,000 residents and almost that many tourists in high season (July–Sept). With a romantic setting, a soaring statue of Christ gazing over the city, and a late-night lively Old Town, San Sebastián has a Rio de Janeiro aura. While there’s no compelling museum to visit, the scenic city provides a pleasant introduction to Spain’s Basque Country.

In 1845, Queen Isabel II’s doctor recommended she treat her skin problems by bathing here in the sea. Her visit mobilized Spain’s aristocracy, and soon the city was on the map as a seaside resort. By the turn of the 20th century, Donostia was the toast of the belle époque, and a leading resort for Europe’s beautiful people. Before World War I, Queen María Cristina summered here and held court in her Miramar Palace overlooking the crescent beach. Hotels, casinos, and theaters flourished. Even Franco enjoyed 35 summers in a place he was sure to call San Sebastián, not Donostia.
Planning Your Time

San Sebastián is worth a day. Stroll the two-mile-long promenade and scout the place you’ll grab to work on a tan. The promenade leads to a funicular that lifts you to the Monte Igueldo viewpoint. After exploring the Old Town and port, walk up to the hill of Monte Urgull. A big part of any visit to San Sebastián is enjoying tapas in the Old Town bars.
Orientation

The San Sebastián we’re interested in surrounds Concha Bay (Bahía de la Concha), and can be divided into three areas: Playa de la Concha (best beaches), the shopping district (called Centro Romántico), and the skinny streets of the grid-planned Old Town (called Parte Vieja, to the north of the shopping district). The Centro Romántico, just east of Playa de la Concha, has beautiful turn-of-the-20th-century architecture, but no real sights.

It’s all bookended by mini-mountains: Monte Urgull to the north and east, Monte Igueldo to the south and west. The river (Río Urumea) divides central San Sebastián from the district called Gros (which has a lively night scene and surfing beach).
San Sebastián

Tourist Information: San Sebastián’s TI, conveniently located right on the Alameda del Boulevard, has information on city and regional sights, as well as bus and train schedules. Pick up the excellent town booklet, which has English descriptions of the three walking tours — the Old Quarter/Monte Urgull walk is best (TI open July–Sept Mon–Sat 8:30–20:00, Sun 10:00–14:00 & 15:30–19:00; Oct–June Mon–Sat 9:00–13:30 & 15:30–19:00, Sun 10:00–14:00; Boulevard 8, tel. 943-481-166, www.sansebastianturismo.com). Skip the San Sebastián Card unless you plan to use the bus a lot (€10 for 3 days of free bus transport plus minor sightseeing discounts).

English-language walking tours of the Old Town (Parte Vieja), Monte Urgull, and Centro Romántico cost €5 (90 min, July–Aug daily at 10:00, Sept–June weekends only at 11:00, confirm schedule with TI). The TI also rents audioguides (€10/2 hours).